Better Homes and Gardens (February 2014)

Larger houses and Gardens is the single journal that is helping you switch your house right into a comfortable, inviting haven. each factor is choked with bedrooms that wrap you in heat, kitchens that begin your day with sunshine, gardens that greet you with gladness, porches that placed you at peace, and recipes that turn into fast relations classics.

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Additional info for Better Homes and Gardens (February 2014)

Sample text

Take care here as the abrasive removes wood quite quickly, and if you cut too far you’ll open out the mouth of the plane too much. The final stage of the build is to fit the wedge properly. The secret to getting these planes to work well is to have a flat sole, a sharp iron and, most important of all, a well-fitted wedge. To fit the wedge, simply fit a honed blade in its cutting position and tap the wedge home and check that the rear of the wedge is in contact with the blade across its full width.

A pin gauge is used to strike a mark down the long grain, and is useful to define rebate shoulders prior to moulding, to minimise tear-out when machining. Mortise gauges work in the same manner, but are used to determine the outer walls of the mortise. Using a gauge can take a fair bit of practice, as they can grab and wander in the grain. The trick is to make initial light strokes, rolling your wrist as you go. In most joinery type applications you can get away with cutting across the grain to a pencil line, but the better option is to Marking up the stock Dropping each component onto the rod in its relevant position, you can mark in each intersection, so all shoulder lines and “Use the width of the mortise chisel itself to mark out the mortises; don’t rely on the 1/3’s rule – you’ll have to take into account rebates and the like” knife them in with a marking knife; this severs the grain and leaves a cleaner shoulder.

I could tell from the grain that it was beech, stained to match the rest of the clock, which did look like mahogany – at least in places. The biggest diameter on the new finials would be 38mm but, annoyingly, the only beech board I had was just 35mm-thick, so I had to glue two thicknesses together and then cut it down to around 42mm-thick with the joint down the middle. This was mounted between centres on the lathe.

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